L'express Restaurant: A Beloved Montreal Classic

L’Express is a must-visit institution in Montreal, one of the best French restaurants in the city! A well-known dining spot, this establishment is a classic, offering cuisine with impressive consistency.
François Tremblay, Colette Brossoit, Pierre Villeneuve, and two silent investors opened the restaurant L’Express on December 19, 1980 (!) on Saint-Denis Street. The establishment is even included in our list of Montreal institutions. The late Colette and Pierre were theater people, and at the time, Saint-Denis Street was a popular and bustling thoroughfare.

They wanted to open a restaurant where people could eat after the theater, but more importantly, a place where everyone would feel at home. Both stage technicians and leading actors should be comfortable there.

L’Express was created with this idea of conviviality and inclusivity across all social classes. Even today, the restaurant offers appetizers starting at under $10, daily specials ranging from $13 to $35, and main courses between $19.75 and $38 (!). And as for the wines, glasses start at $8.50, and the bottles are among the best value in town. L’Express offers two wine lists: a “Regular Wine List” and a “Parallel Wine List.”

The original owners, however, opened the restaurant without much experience in the hospitality industry. When L’Express first launched, Colette was in the kitchen, and Pierre worked as the maître d’ in the evening. The menu was simple, and even without a well-defined selection, customers poured in.

After a few months of great success, they found themselves struggling to keep up and had to restructure. They placed an ad looking for a chef, and in October 1982, Joël Chapoulie applied and got the job. For over 30 years, he delighted L’Express’s loyal clientele with his meticulously crafted and consistently satisfying dishes.

It is thanks to Chef Chapoulie that today’s menu exists. If you visit, you must try the bone marrow, chicken liver mousse, steak tartare, veal kidneys, ravioli, or hanger steak. For the restaurant’s regulars, L’Express also offers a selection of daily and seasonal dishes that change based on arrivals. Here, everything is made in-house—except the bread! From the pickles, prepared twice daily, to the unique sauces accompanying each dish, L’Express puts great care and attention into every plate.

In January 2016, after Chef Chapoulie’s well-earned retirement, the talented Jean-François Vachon took over the kitchen, ensuring the restaurant maintained its exceptionally high standards. In March 2025, he announced his departure, warmly thanking the entire L’Express team—both in the kitchen and the dining room—before leaving to “take on new challenges.”

(We will, of course, keep you updated on what’s next for Chef Vachon.)

Many loyal customers have continued to return to L’Express since 1980, but the team itself is also one of the most stable in the industry.

The restaurant’s décor has played a key role in its success as well. Designed by the renowned architect Luc Laporte, this elegant French brasserie is a benchmark for its style. Joël Chapoulie once said: “Architect Luc Laporte created a fantastic design, remarkably classic—you couldn’t do better in this style; everything is balanced, just right.” And it’s hard to disagree. The fully open dining room creates a unique atmosphere. The 15 bar seats allow for an enjoyable solo or intimate dining experience, while the 60-seat dining room brings just the right touch of refined elegance.

“Everyone who grew up here comes back with their children—we have a new generation, and it’s amazing! The atmosphere at L’Express is unique. Some guests stop by covered in paint while moving in, others come before their wedding, after the theater, before a big event, or even after giving birth. We’re like a big family, and I think our customers can feel that.”

Today’s owners—Pierre Villeneuve, Mario Brossoit, Hélène Dansereau, and Marc-Olivier Gavina (a new partner who has served as general manager since 2024)—bring a great deal of passion to L’Express, ensuring its renowned quality while keeping it relevant. This isn’t a place to be dazzled by an overly creative menu but rather to savor perfectly executed, time-honored classics.

If most Montrealers have dined at this iconic establishment, few know its secrets. Here are a few interesting facts about L’Express on Saint-Denis Street.

L’Express opened its doors on December 19, 1980, and since then, this Saint-Denis institution has gained worldwide recognition. The original owners were Colette Brossoit, Pierre Villeneuve, and François Tremblay. Today, the restaurant is managed by Hélène Dansereau, Mario Brossoit, and Pierre Villeneuve.
For over 30 years, Chef Joël Chapoulie led the kitchen and crafted an impeccable menu. From 2016 to March 2025, Chef Jean-François Vachon took the helm. Having started his culinary career at L’Express under Chapoulie’s guidance, Vachon deeply understood the restaurant’s philosophy and upheld its renowned quality.
L’Express is a reassuring restaurant. The menu rarely changes because the customers don’t want any alterations to the beloved dishes they’ve grown accustomed to. The menu has become a source of constant comfort—a classic, untouchable, timeless collection. People come from all over to enjoy a delicious meal at L’Express in its vibrant atmosphere. However, the dishes listed on the small cards tucked beside the main menu change regularly. This is to keep things fresh, particularly for frequent guests who don’t want to eat hanger steak or calf’s liver five times a week. Despite that, the customers always go for the classic items! Some of the most popular dishes include: Chicken liver mousse, Bone marrow, Beef tartare, Hanger steak, Calf’s liver, Île flottante. For us, it’s all about the hanger steak, calf’s liver, kidneys, and bone marrow!
The sorrel soup and chicken liver mousse, among others, have been on the menu since the very first days!
At the time, in Montreal, dishes like bone marrow or hanger steak were quite rare. It was Joël Chapoulie who introduced these to the city with L’Express
The L’Express team now consists of just over 70 dedicated professionals who execute their work impeccably and with great passion. New team members generally integrate seamlessly, fully aware of the privilege of working in such a prestigious and highly sought-after establishment.
The decor was designed by the late Luc Laporte, a great architect among the greats. If L’Express is considered an institution, it’s because Laporte managed to create a fantastic space, one of remarkable classical style. You couldn’t ask for a better balance—everything is just right. The decor is an essential part of the restaurant’s identity. The place truly has a unique soul!
This beautiful decor has barely changed over the years; it has only been refreshed. However, the ceilings were once beige, but due to the heavy smoking of customers, the restaurant decided to paint them in a color that reflected the yellowish hue left by the smoke! Thanks to its history and distinct style, L’Express has become one of the most beautiful restaurants in Montreal.
Instead of placing a sign high up, the architect installed one of the first signs in the Montreal landscape directly in the heated sidewalk in front of the restaurant. This sign is therefore on the ground, perhaps a symbol of humility for L’Express.
The restaurant has 75 seats, including 15 at the counter. The counter is an integral part of the French brasserie spirit that defines the establishment.
What makes customers keep coming back and what turns the restaurant into an institution? Consistency, atmosphere, and warm hospitality. Additionally, the loyal customers and staff, along with the long hours of operation, ensure that you can always visit—almost like an improved public service, open nearly all day, 364 days a year. There’s an energy in the air, a unique ambiance, a strong sense of teamwork, and the comforting nature of the menu and all its offerings. Not to mention, the beautiful wine list with very reasonable prices.