Motto: Handroll Bar in the Heart of Old Montreal
Some places make waves before even opening their doors. Such is the case with Motto, located on Saint-François-Xavier Street in the heart of Old Montreal. This Japanese restaurant pays tribute to the delicate art of temaki: sheets of nori filled with rice and fish, rolled by hand and served à la minute, right before your eyes.
Behind this house is David Malka, partner of the beloved Stellina, Mare, and Taglio. One might be tempted to say that everything David touches turns to success — and Motto is no exception. This sushi bar and more is already positioning itself as one of the city’s culinary references, where authenticity shines through the products: fish sourced primarily from sustainable fishing, carefully selected rice, and privately imported nori. The idea is to rediscover the very essence of Japanese products in their purest form. This rigor and attention to detail already elevate Motto among the best sushi restaurants in town.
Precision at the heart of the experience
To bring the project to life, the house turned to the talented chef Daniel Ken, of Japanese and Brazilian origin. With an impressive background and training under great masters, he masters the gesture with a precision so captivating it becomes almost hypnotic. From the bar — the true centerpiece of the space — guests can admire the finesse of a craft executed in perfect harmony with his kitchen team.
Among the standout dishes, it’s hard to overlook the bluefin tuna sashimi topped with wasabi relish, or the salmon tataki draped in truffle ponzu and garnished with delicate bubu arare pearls (tiny toasted rice crisps that add an airy crunch). Beyond being delicious, they are beautifully plated. The true specialty of the house remains the handroll sets — an invitation to discovery — served one at a time to preserve the nori’s freshness and crispness. Soon, an authentic miso soup — to be sipped like hot tea — will enrich the offering, while seasonal creations will punctuate the menu to keep the experience ever-renewed.
On the drinks side, Motto offers a brilliantly curated list of signature cocktails where Asian flavors shine through with finesse: edamame purée, shiso, white peach, yuzu… To this are added a fine selection of sake, from the classic to the aromatic, and a concise but well-chosen wine list that rounds out the experience perfectly.
A singular and elegant atmosphere
The design was envisioned by David in close collaboration with Sangare Studio, who oversaw the plans and lighting fixtures. The luminous space captivates with its magenta hues enveloping banquettes and walls, and a white drapery suspended above the sushi bar, infusing the place with elegance worthy of Montreal’s finest tables.
Inspired by Japanese sushi bars — where the experience is quick yet never compromises quality — Motto is as fitting for a business lunch as it is for an intimate dinner. Reservations are not accepted: the 28 seats are filled by walk-ins. Guests are advised to call ahead to check availability, and starting next week, they’ll be able to wait next door at the brand-new Motto Cocktail Bar — a speakeasy inspired by Tokyo’s underground addresses. Promising to serve the coldest beer in town — an Asahi Super Dry chilled to zero degrees in a frosty glass that stays cold to the last sip — the bar will also offer crudos and small surprises, while keeping handrolls as Motto’s exclusive signature.
We love this address because it doesn’t try to do too much. Motto goes straight to the essentials, as if it had always been part of Old Montreal’s culinary landscape. A refined table that will no doubt become one of your favorites.
Written by Jean-Philippe Tastet
Photography by Alison Slattery