Jean-Philippe Tastet’s 5 Favourite Addresses in Marseille
In partnership with Québec City Jean Lesage International Airport and Air France, here are Jean-Philippe Tastet’s favourite spots in Marseille!
The name Jean-Philippe Tastet probably rings a bell. Yes, he is in fact the father of our founder Élise — the one who proofreads, comments, corrects, the attentive quality control of the clan. But first and foremost, Jean-Philippe is a writer. A real one. The kind who held the restaurant column at the daily Le Devoir for nearly a quarter of a century (!). More than thirty years of columns and reviews, an eye that catches the detail of a clumsy service as easily as the beauty of an honest plate.
It has to be said that Jean-Philippe fell into gastronomy early. Born in Toulouse, he grew up in Labastide-Murat, a small village in the Lot, before setting off at 22 to teach French in New Orleans, then in Tehran in the middle of the revolution; and everywhere he went, he tasted, analyzed, tried to understand. Three deeply different cuisines, a curiosity that has never settled down, and a palate at ease with Persian spices, the simmering pots of the Louisiana bayous, or those of the south of France. A fairly handy background, it turns out, when it comes to talking about Marseille.
Why Marseille calls for a trained palate
Because Marseille is exactly that: a loud, mixed, Mediterranean city, where North African and Italian influences live side by side with Provençal tradition. The kind of city that calls for a curious palate and a well-trained eye (two things Jean-Philippe has in abundance!). So when we set out to find someone to draw a gourmand portrait of the city, the answer was pretty obvious. Here are Jean-Philippe Tastet’s five favourite spots in Marseille — modest addresses to slip into your travel notebook for your next Air France flight toward the Mediterranean sun.
Here are his five addresses to seek out on your next visit to Marseille.
Chez Fonfon — The Bouillabaisse, a Ritual Kept Since 1952
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You don’t pass through Marseille without eating a bouillabaisse. It’s a rule, almost an obligation. And for those who can’t rely on a local family kitchen, Chez Fonfon, tucked along the Vallon des Auffes since 1952, stands as the definitive reference. The view over the little fishing port, the boats rocking gently, the steaming broth arriving at the table: everything conspires to make this meal feel timeless. An institution, in the very best sense of the word.
La Goulette — The Maghreb, a Fork Away
Photo : Yohann Weiss
Maghreb and Tunisia are just a stone’s throw from Marseille, and La Goulette will convince you that, when it comes to this country, a single step is enough. Here, lavish couscous reigns supreme over tagines and other delicacies. To make sure that, even when you’re full, you’ll surrender at dessert time, the little sweet treats are displayed in the window and are simply irresistible.
SAGE — Provençal Bistronomie With a Conscience
At 96 rue Grignan, SAGE embodies a new generation of purpose-driven Marseille restaurants. Behind the acronym — Saison, Artisanat, Goût, Émotion (Season, Craft, Taste, Emotion) — young chef Loris de Vaucelles, trained at Institut Paul Bocuse, delivers a resolutely locavore Provençal bistronomy. The short, season-driven menu puts vegetables and short supply chains in the spotlight. Zero waste, natural wines, and a calming mineral decor round out the experience.
Louison — A Sun-Filled Brasserie at the Heart of the City
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On the ground floor of the Amista hotel, right in the heart of cours Saint-Louis, Louison is a chic Provençal brasserie rooted in local terroir and producers. Panisses with aïoli, house-made burger, butcher’s cut, catch of the day, and slow-simmered daube set the tone of the menu. In a sun-drenched setting inspired by old apothecary counters, designed by Dorothée Delaye, you can brunch, lunch, and enjoy a drink from morning to night. Just steps away, discover Maison Empereur, your next new Marseille friend — the oldest hardware store in France, founded in 1827 and today an exceptional general department store.
Gingembre — Saigon on Rue d’Aubagne
At 39 rue d’Aubagne, in the heart of Noailles, Gingembre adds a fresh voice to the neighbourhood’s culinary mosaic. The kitchen serves Vietnamese family cooking, reimagined in a contemporary bistro register. On the menu: Tonkinese pho, traditional bo-bun, beef loc lac with a runny egg, house-made nems, and the chef’s signature ginger chicken. In a bright dining room dotted with greenery and anchored by a vivid yellow spiral staircase, you travel to Saigon for the length of a meal, accompanied by inventive house mocktails.
Written by Jean-Philippe Tastet
Photography by Alison Slattery
