Romies : American-style bistro in Old Montreal

The secret is out: the owners of beloved Saint-Henri brunch spot Arthurs Nosh Bar have been quietly working on a new project for several months. Romies, a chic new American-style bistro in Old Montreal, is finally open to the public. We met with Reagan Steinberg, husband Alexander Cohen, and their associates for a little sneak peek.

The new restaurant, which opened at the end of June, takes the place of Boris Bistro on McGill Street, which announced its closure in August 2022. The talented designer Annika Krausz, who had already proven her impeccable taste at Bar Wills and Lawrence, completely reimagined the space. Burgundy leather banquettes, wooden wall panels, upholstered chairs, and black marble tables: the ensemble is both contemporary and timeless, with mid-century modern elements counterbalancing the industrial skeleton of the space to create a cozy and inviting atmosphere. The space sits about 80inside, plus around 50 more in its verdant interior courtyard.

In the kitchen, chefs Alexandre Cohen and Nicholas Giambattisto have assembled a stellar team, including pastry chef Leigh Roper (formerly of Foxy), who handles the desserts menu. Romies serves up an American-style bistro menu with several classics of the genre, with a twist. “We want to make good food that people want to eat,” sums up Reagan. Ribs, cowboy pepper bacon steak,  crudos, shrimp cocktail with avocado dip and chili sauce, tartare with grilled eggplant and giardiniera, grass-fed steak for two (or four, depending on your appetite)… Enough to wet our appetites! “The burger on homemade Hawaiian bread is amazing,” adds the restaurateur. For dessert, more revisited classics, such as a rice pudding, fruit platters, and a “Grand service de tarte aux pommes” for two, served tableside with crème anglaise, aged cheddar, and all the trimmings.

Front of house, Franck Roche (Lorbeer, Warehouse) manages the team, assisted by young sommelier Léa Viens, recruited from Poincaré Chinatown, who curates the wine list: natural wines, classics, rare gems, and several options by the glass. Dolan Levy (ex Hiatus) serves behind the bar. Here too, you can expect old and modern classics: Black Manhattan, Jungle Bird, Old Fashioned, Negroni, Americano, and so on.

We’re always a bit concerned about our wallets when dining out in Old Montreal–with good reason–, but Reagan assures us that Romies will have options for all budgets: “Alex is very conscious about that and wants to have a bit of everything. We want it to be accessible.” The same goes for refreshments, Franck adds.

It’s somewhat of a reunion for the team members, who all met at Joe Beef about a decade ago. “It’s fun to reconvene at  very different point in our life,” shares Reagan. “We have kids, we’re serious, we get up at 6 AM. ” With its understated and refined decor, Romies reflects this newfound maturity. But that doesn’t mean it won’t be festive. “In Montreal, you can get good food and good vibes. We wanted both,” she goes on. With all these talented people behind the project, we have no doubt this will be the case.

To start, Romies will be open five nights a week. Lunches and brunches should follow soon, if all goes well.

Long live Romies!

Written by Mikael Lebleu
Photography by Mikael Lebleu

Last update: December 10, 2024

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