Polari: neighborhood wine bar in Villeray.

On de Castelnau Street in Villeray, behind a small garage door, you’ll find a charming wine bar that deserves to be discovered.

The goal behind Polari is to offer a simple, accessible, and friendly wine bar. With service taking place directly at the bar, the space quickly feels like your own. It’s not uncommon for the communal tables to suddenly become a gathering point for all sorts of chance encounters.

Three people are behind this project. Keaton Ritchie (from Larry’s, Salle Climatisée, Lawrence), who has been working in the industry for several years. Excited about the idea of opening his own wine bar, he was able to benefit from all the knowledge he gained over the years and the openings he participated in.
“Before the opening of Polari, I wasn’t even stressed. I knew it was going to go well!” he confided during our visit.

His two business partners come from completely different backgrounds. Asa Perlman is a designer, and with his handy skills, he helped set up the entire bar, except for the electrical work. The third partner is Émile Foucher, an artist who has worked in design and new technologies. He is currently behind the bar with Keaton, as they are the only two employees at the moment.

Where does the name of the bar come from? Polari is a dialect that emerged in the 18th century in England, spoken only by a marginalized part of the population, primarily by homosexuals. It’s no coincidence that this is the name chosen by the owners. Being members of the queer community themselves, the historical nod made perfect sense. In addition to being a lovely, simple, one-word, bilingual name, it was a way for them to affirm that everyone is welcome at Polari.

A small space full of treasures.

The brick walls, garage door, and industrial side of the space remind one of the former Alexandraplatz (now Bar Wills), a place that the owners particularly cherished. The simplicity of the décor allows the two artworks, created by Mégane Voghell and Joanna King, to shine. Other items, like the pothole benches (literally potholes cast in epoxy, as if they were hatching eggs!) and the majestic blue sink, are second-hand finds, like most of the furniture. The best example of a second life is undoubtedly the wooden bar, which used to be a bowling lane!

However, the true star of Polari is the wine list, curated by Keaton. It features primarily organic and natural products at fair prices. With a few options available by the glass and several bottles priced between $44 and $80, not to mention some excellent selections for special occasions, the menu appeals to everyone. A few bites are available to accompany our glass of wine, such as a small dish of olives, buffalo mozzarella, or a platter of raw vegetables with tahini dip. This last menu item perfectly illustrates the neighborhood life that Émile is particularly proud of. “I walk to the Jean-Talon Market with my little cart to get the vegetables, and I love it!”

We love Polari because it’s an unpretentious wine bar that offers quality products without any fuss. The owners’ desire to integrate into the neighborhood is at the heart of the establishment, and we love that. Long live Polari!

Written by Jean-Philippe Tastet
Photography by Alison Slattery

Last update: October 09, 2024

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