Grille-Nature: David McMillan and Derek Dammann’s Return to Their Roots

Grille-Nature is a project that’s generating a lot of buzz in the industry. David McMillan (formerly of Joe Beef, Liverpool House, Vin Papillon, McKiernan) and Derek Dammann (formerly of Maison Publique and Restaurant Île de France) are opening a new restaurant together in Montreal’s West Island! The duo, who have each left a strong mark on the city’s culinary scene for over twenty years, are coming back with a clear and straightforward idea: a direct, generous cuisine focused on the grill and on high-quality products — in a neighbourhood sorely lacking chef-owned restaurants. They will be joined by head chef Melinda Gorman and sous-chef Raph Simon.

Why “Grille-Nature”?

A simple, accessible word that speaks to both French and English speakers. And above all, a word that says exactly what they do: grill nature. The essence of the products, of their cooking — rooted in the soil, the farm, and the seasons. The name also carries a subtle nod to Beaujolais: Grillé-Midi, a term that’s always amused McMillan.

Why open in the West Island?

Derek: “Have you seen the parking lot?! I spent 12 years getting parking tickets and driving in circles looking for a spot. There, I can park! I was sold the minute I saw the parking.” (laughs)

David: “I’ve always said that one of the last restaurants I’d open would be in the West Island. I grew up here, I still live here, my kids too. Today, this is where my life happens.”

Why open together?

Derek and David have worked together before and know each other well.

David: “I love this guy. As a cook, he’s probably my favourite. We come from different worlds, but he’s incredibly talented. We like the same things: not tasting menus, simple cooking, an appetizer, a main, a dessert. We’re bistro guys.”

Derek: “We can be honest, even harsh with each other, and keep going. We’re aligned. There’s real respect there.”

The two industry heavyweights have always maintained a unique relationship — built on questionable memes and affectionate insults — but it works. An unexpected duo, certainly memorable, and bursting with talent.

The Menu at Grille-Nature

We get to savour a few of the “greatest hits” from their respective careers! The menu is simple yet impressively complete — and above all, deeply satisfying. Beautifully handled quality products, flawless execution, and a cuisine rooted in nearby farms, with a few playful nods to the ’90s.

We naturally start with the raw bar: bluefin tuna on a crispy tostada, beef tartare, country-style mortadella, buffalo mozzarella… and of course, oysters! As much as we love them raw, the baked version with white ragù is absolutely incredible. When it comes to starters, we dig into baked clams, honey-and-ginger shrimp, fried avocados — but above all… the chicken soup! One of our standout favourites on the menu. “We are bringing soup back,” says David. And he’s right: it’s rich, savoury, salty, silky — everything a proper chicken soup should be. Impossible not to mop up every last drop.

Proteins truly take centre stage here. The lineup includes beautifully executed cuts: Salisbury steak coated in peppery brown sauce — a nod to the classic “hamburger steak”; oven-baked ribs that fall right off the bone, tender and caramelized; and the Bedford cheeseburger, as juicy as it gets. Seafood lovers will be just as happy with the Brumont shrimp aioli, perfectly grilled and delicately perfumed. The “over the coals” section also impresses with hits like the spiral sausage topped with a fried egg and anchovies, alongside other show-stopping cuts. No need to say it — Dereck and Dave master both cooking and sauces with total confidence, fully living up to their reputation.

Several sides round out the offering, and daily specials are written on the chalkboard. And really — can you end a dinner without dessert? Not in our book. If it’s available, go for the chocolate and fleur de sel cake: rich, dense, layered with decadent ganache — a classic that never disappoints. Grille-Nature is the kind of place you can visit just as easily with your epicurean friend as with your pickiest eater — because everyone finds something they love, and everyone leaves impressed.

As for the wine: a card for everyone as well, featuring natural wines — “I won’t go too far at the beginning, won’t scare people!” — along with classics and several Québec producers, including Sœur Racine, Pervenches, wines by Zach from Espiègle, and the McMillan vineyard wines arriving this spring.

The Decor

As with his previous restaurants, McMillan designed the space himself. No designer, no theoretical approach — he shifts, repaints, tweaks, adds incongruous and kitschy objects that, for some inexplicable reason, work beautifully together in his hands. The room is very large — up to 170 seats — a rare luxury for them. “We’ve never had this much space. We want to be able to bring carts to the table: desserts, cheeses, meats. You need space for that.” The décor follows their usual style: raw, a bit improvised, but warm, lively, and authentic.

An Exciting Project That Brings Them Closer to Their Dream

McMillan owns a vineyard, and Dereck runs a farm. Together, they’ve envisioned this restaurant as a way to reconnect with the land and the products they raise and grow themselves. As early as next summer, guests will be able to enjoy their own animals, their wines, and their vegetables. And the ideas won’t stop there: the neighbouring space, a food truck, maybe even a drive-thru one day. “We want to have fun, be welcoming, and push things further.”

Dereck sums it up simply: “I’m excited to host. I see everything differently now. I am excited to be the host!” And honestly — we’re more than excited about this powerhouse duo. And, yes… a little about the parking too.

Grille-Nature marks a new chapter for two chefs who have nothing left to prove, yet still so much desire and so many ideas ahead of them. A project destined for massive success, where you’ll eat exceptionally well — and above all, be exceptionally well welcomed. Montréal hospitality at its very best. Book here.

Written by Jean-Philippe Tastet
Photography by Alison Slattery

Last update: December 05, 2025

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