Denise: new team, renewed pleasures

Since its opening in 2018, Denise has developed several personalities. Today, this little establishment remains one of our favorite wine bars in the city. It’s a reliable place in Parc-Extension, a laid-back spot to meet up and eat with a good bottle of wine.

It’s a true neighbourhood ‘buvette’ with about thirty seats. The capacity increases in the summer with a charming terrace where regulars bask in the last rays of the day’s sunlight. The colourful interior comes to life around a large central bar, with a view of the small kitchen at the back. There’s nothing pretentious here; it’s likely for this reason, along with the warm and professional welcome from the staff, that Denise sees the same cheerful faces returning week after week. Lydia Roussel, whose dedication to quality you may have appreciated when she was at Boxermans, plays an important role in the warm atmosphere at Denise, providing attentive and friendly service to everyone.

New team, same pleasure on the plate…

In May 2024, new people took over the restaurant. Among them, Korlin Kaetzel and Julia Mallette both work in the kitchen, and we thank the stars for guiding them to this profession. They create meticulously prepared small dishes, filled with delightful touches. For example, in their menu of around fifteen items, some stand out: Crushed potatoes with seaweed and hollandaise, Raw beef with kefir, lemongrass, cashews, shrimp chips, and the standout, Halibut with miso, celeriac, sake, tomatoes, thin slices of olives, and a few elderflower capers that add zing to the perfectly seared fish. The chef delicately sprinkles seaweed powder—nori, I believe—over the hollandaise and chips. At the neighbouring tables, two women marveled at their shared dish, a man sighed with pleasure while sipping the orange wine from Vermont Lydia poured for him, and on the terrace, the customers were deeply focused, speaking little, and truly savouring their plates. We asked about the young couple in charge of the kitchen. “They’re only two in the kitchen every day, and their cooking depends on what they can find at the market that day. Their dishes are mainly influenced by what they like to eat—Japan, Southeast Asia, and North Africa,” Lydia responded, managing the place with elegance and efficiency. “We’ve managed to keep prices reasonable, with dishes ranging from $8 to $30.” There are also daily off-menu specials, displayed on the blackboard behind the bar. The night we visited: “Chicken wings with jeow som, chili, and radicchio,” and for dessert, a tempting “Cantaloupe sorbet.” Energized by the Laotian sauce, the wings could have taken flight thanks to the delicious blend of spices and components of the jeow som; though once the dish is done, you might feel like you’re floating.

… and in the glass too

In addition to taking care of the customers at Denise, Lydia has also crafted a wine list as appetizing as the dishes Julia and Korlin prepare in the kitchen. “I focus on wines from the Americas (Chile, Argentina, USA, Canada) and selections from Spain and Portugal. We now offer an interesting and diverse cocktail program that also evolves with the products available at the market. Our cocktails range from $13 to $16, and the wines from $50 to $100.” With the cheerful atmosphere here, we highly recommend the moments of happiness that come with a visit to Denise. It’s on our list of top spots in Outremont and Parc-Extension.

Written by Jean-Philippe Tastet
Photography by Alison Slattery

Last update: October 22, 2024

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