Lesley Chesterman: An Iconic Voice In Our Culinary Landscape

Before becoming one of the most feared — and most respected — voices in Montreal’s culinary world, Lesley Chesterman was perfecting her pliés and pirouettes.

A classically trained ballet dancer, she left school after high school to pursue her dream full-time… until a left foot injury — and a growing desire for freedom — propelled her toward a completely different stage. At the time, in her dance classes, Lesley would hide copies of Gourmet Magazine. The first clue that another passion was calling her: cooking.

From pliés to soufflés : A Life of Discipline

Cooking runs in Lesley Chesterman’s blood: her mother and grandmother were true legends in the kitchen. In 1989, she enrolled at ITHQ, alongside future culinary giants like Pasquale Vari, Martin Picard, and Nancy Samson. There, she immersed herself in the pastry program — chocolate-making, candy-making, ice cream — with the rigor of a professional dancer.

Very quickly, she found in cooking what she loved about ballet: discipline, precision, and the drive to push herself. An internship in France led her to work with some of the greatest chefs, including Yves Thuriès, a Meilleur Ouvrier de France. The kitchens were tough, especially for a young woman. But Lesley found her place among ganaches and sponge cakes — and even love, with chocolatier Bertrand Bazin (Café Bazin, Café Constance) .

Back in Montreal during a recession — a time when, she jokes, “everything was for rent” — she gained experience at La Gascogne and began teaching at the Pius X Culinary Institute, where she shared her expertise with students, including a young Michele Forgione (Impasto, Gema, Tousignant).

Writing for the Montreal Gazette

It was through teaching that she got closer to writing. After noticing errors in an article about chocolate, she was encouraged to pitch her own piece. She had no formal training in journalism, but she had what can’t be taught: a refined palate, a sharp pen, and strong opinions.

In the late 1990s, she landed the position of food critic at the Montreal Gazette, beating out two other candidates. The city’s culinary scene would never be the same: Lesley Chesterman wrote with honesty, intelligence, and a sometimes biting sense of humor. Admired or feared, she never left readers indifferent — and her reviews were always a delight to read.

For twenty years, she chronicled Montreal’s “golden age” of gastronomy: blossoming chefs, exciting new openings, the scene’s explosive growth. In a city where food is almost sacred, Lesley became a trusted and respected voice. Among her legendary anecdotes: outings with Anthony Bourdain at L’Express and Au Pied de Cochon, and unforgettable laughs with French chef Jacques Pépin.

A Rekindled Passion

After a separation in 2011, she found love again with Jean Aubry, wine critic at Le Devoir, and launched a bilingual career. She left the Gazette to go independent: publishing books, doing radio segments, giving talks — Lesley Chesterman took on multiple projects, always faithful to her passion: telling the stories of real food, the kind that’s lived and shared.

With four books under her belt (and a fifth in the works), she continues to champion an authentic, informed vision of gastronomy.

More Relevant Than Ever

At a time when everyone claims to be a critic and food influencers flood social media, Lesley Chesterman’s voice is a breath of fresh air. Solid, informed, quick-witted — she continues to elevate the conversation. Now president of the prestigious Eastern Canada jury for The World’s 50 Best Restaurants and frequent host of Visa Infinite Dining Series, she ensures our culinary scene gets the recognition it deserves.

And because good news rarely come alone: Lesley has just launched SALT LICK, an explosive podcast co-hosted with the colorful chef David McMillan. Framed as a lively, friendly duel between Chef and Critic, Man and Woman of Opinions, the podcast promises passionate debates and disagreements over a shared love of food in all its forms. After over thirty years of friendship, rivalry, and mutual respect, Lesley and David are now pulling back the curtain, inviting listeners into their fascinating world.

What’s Next?

A move to France, maybe raising chickens… (Lesley laughs). But one thing’s for sure: whether through columns, books, podcasts, or at the table, Lesley Chesterman will continue to fiercely champion Montreal’s and Quebec’s gastronomy.

A woman of intellect, heart, and frank words, she is — and will remain — one of the great voices of our culinary culture.

Written by Mikael Lebleu