Junco : caffè, pasta and wine

Along the railway tracks that separate the Sainte-Marie and Hochelaga neighbourhoods nests the dark-eyed junco, a small bird about the size of a sparrow. This winged inhabitant of the area inspired the name of Junco, a café and restaurant with Italian flair located a few steps from the Frontenac metro station, on the ground floor of the Mellem Ville-Marie rental condo project.

The project developer, Maître Carré, commissioned Super (Blind Pig, Waverly, Mineral, Cour Arrière) to create a café and a restaurant (Éléonore, set to open later this fall) to serve the residents of Mellem and the neighbourhood. Very welcome news, given the relatively limited selection of good spots in the area.

“The builders wanted a quality project,” explains Mathieu Ménard, co-owner with his partner Antoine Ormandy of Super. “They wanted a café for the project’s residents, but we also wanted to add an evening element,” he continues.

Design studio blanchette archi.design designed the décor of the small 650-square-foot space, which can accommodate about twenty people. Here too, the dark-eyed junco served as inspiration: the shades of gray, cream, and rust recall its plumage, while pistachio green tones and wicker evoke its habitat. The mood is cheerful and bright during the day; the perfect place to sip coffee and grab a bite while working. In the evening, once the lights are dimmed, the ambiance becomes more intimate and cozy.

Sandwiches, pasta, and wine

Chef William Fréchette works the cauldrons from behind the counter, as the small space doesn’t allow for a full-sized kitchen. Recently moved to Montreal, William has always been immersed in Italian cuisine, as his parents were the owners of the now-closed restaurant DaToni in Sherbrooke, where he worked as a sous-chef. He also led the opening of DaToni Pronto, which is still in operation.

During the day, Junco offers coffee and pastries, a few choices of Italian sandwiches (pistachio mortadella, caprese, truffle ham, etc.), and a daily pasta dish. The evening menu features three or four pasta options (favorites include the mafaldine with pesto and burrata, and the truffle gnocchi) along with a few starters (panzanella salad, mezza luna, Caesar-style carpaccio, garnished focaccias, burrata). Starters range from $5 to $17, and main dishes from $15 to $25—prices that bring a smile during tough times!

To pair with your meal, there’s a short but tempting selection of wines imported from Italy and a cocktail/mocktail menu divided into four sections: spritz, sour, fizz, and negroni. The prices are also quite reasonable.

“It’s an Italian-style café that stays open late, with a friendly and unpretentious approach. You don’t have to overthink it. You know it won’t cost too much, and you’re going to have a good time,” sums up Mathieu Ménard.

Salute!

Written by Mikael Lebleu
Photography by Mikael Lebleu

Last update: November 22, 2024

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