20 Victoria : Where Fine Dining Feels Like Home in the Heart of Toronto

Tucked away on a quiet stretch of Victoria Street, between towering office buildings in downtown Toronto, Restaurant 20 Victoria sits in one of the city’s most unlikely fine dining locations. By evening, the surrounding business district empties out, leaving this stretch of downtown hushed and almost deserted, which only adds to the magic. Step inside, and the city disappears entirely; it’s a cocoon in the best possible sense. This is the kind of restaurant you travel specifically to, not one you stumble upon while strolling the neighbourhood. Owner Chris White was confident from the start that his guests would make the trip.

Since earning its Michelin star in 2023, a distinction it has held every year since, and climbing to #10 on Canada’s 100 Best Restaurants in 2026, this intimate 22-seat dining room has become one of the most compelling culinary destinations in the country. And now, with a new chef at the helm, the restaurant is entering an exciting new chapter.

A New Beginning

Chef Rafael Covarrubias took over the kitchen at 20 Victoria in January 2026, succeeding Julie Hyde, who had led the restaurant since its opening in 2021. Her departure, planned well in advance, opened the door for a thoughtful transition.

The story of how Rafa ended up here is one of patience and alignment. Chris White, the restaurant’s owner, who previously ran the beloved Brothers Food & Wine in Yorkville, reached out to Rafael in early 2025. At the time, he was the Executive Chef at Hexagon in Oakville, a Michelin-starred restaurant where he had earned the 2024 MICHELIN Young Chef Award. Before that, he had won the North America Regional Final of the S.Pellegrino Young Chef competition in 2019 with a now-legendary duck dish.

“I think a lot of offers have come through the years,” Rafa tells us, “but this one was different. It was about partnering with somebody who understands restaurants and hospitality, and who already had a successful restaurant.” After much reflection, he made the leap.

Two Rooms, One Vision

The format at 20 Victoria remains the same: two distinct dining experiences under one roof. The bar room offers an intimate à la carte experience, while the dining room presents a seven-course tasting menu that takes guests on a journey through seasonal flavours and multicultural influences.

But the food itself has evolved. Rafa brought with him Jordan, his chef de cuisine, and Victoria Rinsma, his sous-chef, from Hexagon. Together with Richard, the sous-chef who stayed on from the previous team, they’ve formed what Rafa humbly resists calling “a super team”… but that’s exactly what it feels like.

“The food is a reflection of the people that work here,” he explains. “There’s a big emphasis on our diverse heritage, and probably more directed into my heritage.” Expect a menu that moves fluidly from dishes paying homage to heirloom corn, native to Mexico, now planted in Ontario, to meticulous fish cookery and sauces built with extraordinary care.

And yes, the duck has made the journey. That signature Muscovy duck, refined over the years since the S.Pellegrino competition, has found a new home at 20 Victoria. By all accounts, guests are thrilled.

The Details That Matter

What strikes you about 20 Victoria is how personal it all feels. The team is small but committed: Chris White leads the front of house alongside Jess and Declan. Toni Weber curates the wine list and pairings.

The cocktail program is deliberately restrained: just three offerings, all low-ABV aperitifs designed to open the palate before the first snacks arrive. The Bambino, a playful riff on the martini, sets the tone perfectly.

Every detail has been considered. The white tablecloths. The lighting. The music. The way the space envelops you once you step inside. Perhaps it’s the quiet of the street outside, or the intimacy of those 22 seats, but the effect is unmistakable: you’ve arrived somewhere worth the journey. “Once you walk into 20 Victoria, nothing else kind of matters,” says the chef. “You don’t feel like you’re anywhere but at the restaurant.”

What makes 20 Victoria special isn’t just the Michelin star or the accolades. It’s the sense that everyone here, from the kitchen to the dining room, shares the same vision and the same commitment. It’s a restaurant where fine dining doesn’t mean stiff or pretentious; it means that every gesture, every dish, every glass of wine has been chosen with care and intention.

Rafael Covarrubias puts it best: “We promote a positive environment. We take care of our people. And I think that’s what I like the most.”

Written by Fabie Lubin
Photography by Scott Usheroff (Craving Curator)

Updated on May 11, 2026

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