Ramen Youki: A Taste of Hiroshima in Montreal

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  • Ramen Youki

  • $$
  • 1562 Avenue Laurier Est Montréal H2J 1H9
  • Monday: 11:30 AM – 2:30 PM
    Tuesday: Closed
    Wednesday: Closed
    Thursday: 11:30 AM – 2:30 PM, 5:30 PM – 9:30 PM
    Friday: 11:30 AM – 2:30 PM, 5:30 PM – 9:30 PM
    Saturday: 5:30 PM – 9:30 PM, 11:30 AM – 2:30 PM
    Sunday: 11:30 AM – 8:00 PM
  • Restaurant

The bowl of ramen served at Ramen Youki carries more than 65 years of family history. The shoyu tonkotsu recipe comes from the counter that Shinichi Hara’s grandfather opened in Hiroshima, still in operation today, and whose name the Montreal restaurant shares. “Youki (陽気) means ‘joyful’ in Japanese,” explains the chef-owner. “The name reflects a simple wish: to make people happy with a good bowl of ramen.”

A native of Hiroshima, a sister city of Montreal since 1998, Shinichi Hara speaks French and lived here for nearly two years. “I fell in love with the city. I wanted to share a piece of my hometown’s culinary culture with the people here.” Rather than downtown, he chose the calm of Avenue Laurier. “The original Youki is also in a residential neighbourhood. I wanted to recreate that same community spirit in Montreal.”

A different kind of ramen

“We focus on a few things, done well.” The broth, drawn from pork bones and vegetables simmered for more than two days, then seasoned with a Hiroshima soy sauce, proves flavourful and comforting. Typical of southwestern Japan, this style favours a certain lightness, the opposite of the ultra-rich broths found all over the city. It’s a signature that earns it a place among Montreal’s best ramen. The fresh noodles, supplied by a Japanese artisan noodle maker, have a firm spring to the bite. Chashu, bean sprouts, green onion and garlic top the bowl, and both the chashu and the marinated eggs are made in-house. The plant-based sesame ramen has nothing to envy the pork version. Miso, eggplant, tofu, yuzu and sansho oil, a Japanese pepper with citrus notes that lightly tingles the tongue, come together in a remarkably intense bowl, with surprisingly complex layers.

For a first visit, the chef recommends adding the karaage, skin-on chicken thighs marinated and then fried until crispy and juicy, served with a house-made garlic mayo. It all pairs particularly well with an Asahi Super Dry on tap, a fairly rare find in Montreal. Those who don’t drink alcohol can opt for the yuzu soda, made with a house syrup.

Sake, the other house specialty

Before opening Youki, Shinichi Hara was a sake sommelier at a specialty bar in Japan. He builds the list himself, largely from private imports unavailable at the SAQ. “I talk personally with brewers in Japan. I get to know their sake and their brewing philosophy, then I choose the ones I find particularly interesting.”

His list of about twenty sakes ranges from dry, approachable cuvées to exceptional prestige bottles, with a few curiosities along the way, such as an unfiltered sake or a hopped sake. A small glossary in the margin of the menu demystifies the classifications, from junmai to kimoto. Most three-ounce pours stay under $20, and the tasting of three two-ounce sakes makes an ideal entry point. At the counter, let the chef guide your choice and tell the story of each brewery.

The counter, front-row seats

The space housed Frite Alors! for more than 30 years, and the chef chose to preserve its character. “I wanted to respect the history and atmosphere of the space rather than transform it completely,” he says. The L-shaped room lines its stools along the counter, facing the open kitchen, and has only a few traditional tables. The best seat is at the counter, to watch Shinichi at work and strike up a conversation. “We want to recreate the warm atmosphere of Japanese ramen counters, where you feel comfortable eating alone.” With so few seats, the restaurant fills up quickly, especially at lunch.

True to its name, Youki cultivates good cheer well beyond the bowl. “I hope Youki will become a small bridge between Hiroshima and Montreal,” the chef confides. “If a visit to our restaurant makes someone want to discover Hiroshima on a trip to Japan, I would be incredibly happy.” Here you’ll find a small piece of Japan, carried by a chef whose good humour is contagious.


Photography by Alison Slattery





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