L’Atelier Patisserie: a corner of Provence on East Broadway

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Ask around Mount Pleasant where to find a good croissant and one name keeps coming up. L’Atelier Patisserie has built its following almost entirely by word of mouth, on a corner of East Broadway where the traffic is steady and the regulars are many. Behind the counter is Franck Buiron, a pastry chef from Marseille who wanted Vancouver to taste French baking the way it is done at home, with a little more sun in it.

Pastry as a passport

Pastry was, for its founder, a way to see the world. He trained as a pâtissier because the trade travels well, and it took him to England and Australia before a friend convinced him to try Vancouver in the run-up to the 2010 Winter Olympics. He landed a job as pastry chef at Blue Water Café, stayed three years, and built a career in the city’s kitchens from there. Helping friends open Au Comptoir, their French bistro in Kitsilano, showed him that striking out on his own was within reach.

What he saw that was missing in Vancouver at the time was a true French boulangerie-pâtisserie, and he wanted his to carry the flavours of the region he comes from, the south of France, from Provence to Marseille. The name, for Franck, reflects his wish to open up his craft to everyone and give customers a look into the kitchen where it all happens. L’Atelier Patisserie started out in a small storefront on East 5th Avenue, with a few seats out front.

A few years ago, the bakery moved to a much larger corner space on East Broadway, and the room carries the southern accent its owner was after. The look is minimalist and uncluttered, with concrete set against stonework and old-style plaster finishes borrowed from the south of France. A long, well-lit display case leads to the seating area. The move also gave the bakery room for more tables, with about 22 to 24 seats inside and around 35 once the patio is open.

The neighbourhood suits the bakery well. Families and working people make up most of the crowd, the mood is relaxed, and the bulk of the customers are regulars who have built a real connection with the team over the years.

Everything starts with croissant dough

Croissants are what L’Atelier Patisserie is known for, and laminated dough runs through most of the menu. The butter croissant and pain au chocolat anchor the case, joined by a double-baked hazelnut croissant filled with hazelnut cream, an almond croissant with frangipane and sliced almonds, and a rotating cast of more playful versions, some two-toned, some filled, from sesame and chocolate to passion fruit and elderflower. A new special croissant appears every week, and those are often the first to go.

The item the kitchen is proudest of is the laminated brioche, a brioche dough folded like a croissant. The result is richer than a croissant yet lighter in fat and sugar than a kouign-amann, with a crackling, flaky exterior and a lightly caramelized butter flavour. A few bakeries in the city make anything like it.

About 80% of the menu stays the same from day to day, and the rest follows the seasons. In autumn, maple, pecans and pumpkin come forward, in pieces like a maple pecan tart, with the team borrowing from North American flavours while keeping French technique as the base.

Room to rise

The move to Broadway turned a pastry shop into a full bakery. With a proper kitchen of its own, L’Atelier Patisserie started baking bread: baguettes, country loaves, fougasse and house sourdough. It also opened the door to a lunch crowd, with people now dropping in at midday for a sandwich on fresh bread.

Bread now carries the savoury side of the menu. The breakfast sandwich, built on croissant dough, has become a favourite, and a smoked salmon sandwich on baguette holds down the lunch hour, with a short brunch menu alongside. Coffee is now a big part of the day too, with lattes and matcha drinks poured for people who settle in at the tables.

What sets L’Atelier Pattiserie apart is having the whole French bakery cycle in one place: good bread, cakes and viennoiseries, all served with a proper coffee. Visitors who know France tend to recognize the experience right away. Come in hungry and, as the French say, laissez-vous tenter: a croissant at the table, a slice from the cake case and a baguette under the arm for the walk home.








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