Bistro Le Cerf-Volant: Excellent BYOB in East Montreal

The east side of the city can rejoice with the arrival of Bistro Le Cerf-Volant, which breathes new life into the former space of the iconic Taverne Reeves in Tétreaultville, just steps away from the equally renowned Chez Simon urban canteen. This restaurant offers a “bring your own wine” experience that stands out from the current offerings in the neighborhood with its high-end concept and commitment to quality. Its modern bistronomic cuisine showcases fresh, seasonal ingredients, blending friendliness and authenticity with contemporary gastronomy.

The task of revitalizing the space was entrusted to the design studio Catherine Catherine, which faced the main challenge of preserving the essence of Taverne Reeves. It’s safe to say they succeeded! The decor is stunning, cozy, and enveloping. A highlight is the charming intimate terrace at the front of the restaurant, the brown ribbed ceramic that adorns the service station, and the black plexiglass light fixtures that add a modern touch to the space—even the tavern chairs have been preserved as a nod to the past. Bravo!

New Beginnings

The adventure of Bistro Le Cerf-Volant represents a fresh start for two former restaurant partners, Matthieu Bonneau and Benjamin de Châteauneuf, who are passionate about the culinary world.

Matthieu has been in the restaurant industry since the early 2010s, having created the successful counter “L’emporte-pièce.” Since then, he has worked in several BYOB restaurants on the Island of Montreal and the North Shore, where he met Benjamin, who was then the chef partner at Coup-Monté. Benjamin (formerly of Chez L’Épicier and Café Vasco da Gama) has since hung up his apron to focus on the operations of Marlow, which opened in 2021 on the South Shore, another BYOB to add to your list!

Le Cerf-Volant is a return to Matthieu’s roots, as he has lived in the neighborhood for several years. It was actually his girlfriend who suggested the playful name “Cerf-Volant” during a stroll in the park where families often gather to fly kites. He convinced Benjamin to join him in this ambitious project. Matthieu documented the renovation process, and thanks to his strong presence on social media, Le Cerf-Volant quickly became a sought-after destination in East Montreal.

You will be warmly welcomed under Matthieu’s care, and what a welcome it is! Matthieu has an incredible charisma and a remarkable attentiveness to his customers. In the dining room, Katherine Lapierre (formerly of Annette bar à vin), a maître d’hôtel and student in establishment management at ITHQ, leads the team. She guides the staff with the credibility and rigor of the finest restaurants. Katherine notes that she even left her “adult job” to return to her passion, which is the restaurant industry. If you’ve been waiting for the perfect opportunity to bring out the best bottles from your cellar, she will definitely help you find the ideal dish to accompany them.

Unique and Refined Flavors

The menu, crafted by Robert Lapaj (Doubletree Hilton, L’Ardoise) and assisted by sous-chef Michel Dérisier (Molière par Mousso)—both graduates of hotel school—works in tandem to create thoughtful dishes that combine perfectionism and creativity.

Although the restaurant offers a five-course tasting menu, we allowed Matthieu to guide us and opted for several à la carte options. We must say that the tasting experience exceeded our expectations, starting with the amuse-bouche: roasted cauliflower, anchovies, burrata cream, served with a delicious Romesco sauce—a strong start!

Next was the tuna tartare—a surprisingly delightful combination of kiwi, lemongrass syrup, coconut, and crispy taro chips. The blend evokes the Caribbean; it’s the quintessential summer dish! This was followed by scallop ceviche prepared like carpaccio, swimming in a tangy passion fruit marmalade, honeydew melon gel, cilantro, and plantain chips. A work of art in itself. It’s delicate, and we love it.

Our favorite was definitely the mushroom and porcini-filled pierogis. Served here atop a layer of sour cream, beet purée, and caramelized onions, all topped with Padano cheese. It’s worth mentioning that the chef is Polish, and he honors his home country beautifully!

We also greatly enjoyed the sautéed sweetbreads in butter—a French classic reimagined with Asian influences. The dish featured green pea mousseline, wasabi, ginger, and black sesame mayonnaise; the cooking was impeccable, and we savored every bite!

Next comes the “trou normand”, a sort of palate cleanser—a white rum, coconut sorbet, and ginger emulsion. Then we move on to the main dish—the duck breast, seasoned with shichimi tōgarashi, grapefruit segments, braised fennel on parsnip purée, and tamarillo gel. The flavors are sharp, even explosive in the mouth, and it works! Here, there are no small plates to share; the portions are generous and absolutely comforting!

Now onto desserts—because yes, we tried them all! A special mention goes to the famous butterscotch-bacon doughnut, served with vanilla ice cream, a creation by Matthieu. It’s decadent, and we’re still thinking about it!

Le Cerf-Volant definitely brings a new vision to the culinary offerings of the neighborhood, redefining standards with meticulously crafted dishes. A nice selection of non-alcoholic cocktails is also available to meet current trends. The atmosphere is lively without being noisy, and the prices reflect the quality and care put into each dish.

For a romantic date or a gathering with friends, don’t hesitate to bring your best bottle of wine and let yourself be carried away by the flight of Le Cerf-Volant—a destination worth the trip in the east.

Written by Jean-Philippe Tastet
Photography by Maya Cloutier

Last update: October 10, 2024

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