Panacée: An Intimate Gastronomic Haven in the Village

In this small, understated, and elegant restaurant, the young chef-owner presents meticulously crafted dishes bursting with flavor, served around a large central counter. This concept encourages interaction and allows guests to fully savor the Panacée experience.

Catherine Couvet Desrosiers, a former resident of the Village neighborhood in Montreal, had her eye on this small space for some time. It was previously home to the brunch restaurant De farine et d’eau fraîche, featuring a soft powder blue decor, and then to Aperitivo, which had a sleek black ambiance and was opened by the team behind Bar Minéral. When the opportunity arose, the former chef of Foxy jumped at the chance. In early July, she unveiled her first restaurant, Panacée, adorned in green and gold.

Having worked in the kitchens of Bouillon Bilk and Cadet, Catherine wanted to establish her own address, with less volume but maintaining the same attention to detail. “What I loved most was going to see the customers and talking to them,” she shares. The space is perfect for this: a long, narrow area centered around an 18-seat counter. A few tables in the back allow for a more intimate dining experience for a dozen guests.

So, the action takes place around the counter. Two menus are offered: one featuring three savory courses for $60 and the other offering five courses, including three savory and two sweet dishes for $75, with the option to add luxurious items. Each service presents two to three dish choices, allowing diners to personalize their meal.

Sharing Comments, Not Plates

The dishes are delicate and meticulously crafted using local ingredients—though not at any cost; for instance, the chef is a big fan of lemon and doesn’t shy away from using it. Each plate features few ingredients, but each one is beautifully elevated. Catherine advocates for local sourcing, short supply chains, and homemade dishes; that’s also what Panacée means to her. Waste management is sustainable, and almost every “wasted” part of an ingredient is repurposed in another dish.

In contrast to current trends, the plates are not served in a “shareable” format, and it’s every diner for themselves. Sharing happens through conversations and comments with the team or other diners at the counter. “We often see people who don’t know each other chatting over the counter, recommending a dish or commenting on their plates,” Catherine shares. Regarding the wine selection, the menu, crafted by Maude Andrée Méloche and Laurent Cassis, changes very frequently, as the small cellar doesn’t allow for much stock.

As for the name? It comes from a cocktail served at Foxy—a twist on the classic Penicillin that was created for Catherine. While developing her restaurant’s concept, the name naturally emerged: for the chef, a good meal in good company is exactly the remedy for all ills. In short, Panacée is a much-welcomed new addition to the neighborhood, providing space for excellent dining experiences.

Written by Jean-Philippe Tastet
Photography by Alison Slattery

Last update: October 14, 2024

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