Bar Luz: the intimate little brother of Alma

Right next to Alma in Outremont, Bar Luz opens a new, more intimate and subdued chapter in the universe of sommelier Lindsay Brennan and chef Juan Lopez Luna. Conceived as a fonda fina, the place pays homage to everyday Mexican homes — to the ancestral cuisine passed down by matriarchs — and to a simple idea of hospitality: welcoming guests as if at home, with both warmth and precision.

Here, everything begins with ancestral corn, imported directly from small producers in Mexico. The team nixtamalizes and grinds it nightly for fresh daily masa; tortillas are hand-pressed to order and cooked on clay comales. This ritual gesture sets the tone: Bar Luz is about ancient techniques — nixtamalization, mextlapique, fermentation, open-fire cooking, stone grinding — and local ingredients prepared with the finesse of haute cuisine that never loses its humility.

On the plate, one finds the soul of Mexico City’s taquerías and fondas, reimagined through Québec’s seasons: warm tortillas, honest tacos, deep salsas, melting braised meats, and whole fish grilled over coals. It’s a cuisine that speaks softly but directly, nourished by Juan’s childhood memories — especially those of his abuela — and by a team that understands restraint and fire. For dessert, Mauricio Nuñez Infante’s signature creations balance precision and nostalgia, offering a delicate finish. In the same space that once housed Tinc Set (closed to make way for Bar Luz), the beloved churros remain — a delicious nod to the venue’s past life.

In the glass, Lindsay Brennan’s compass guides the way: natural wines from Spain and Mexico, carefully chosen agave spirits, cocktails made from fresh juices and peppers (think palomas with chile morita, micheladas with house-made Clamato), and a refined non-alcoholic selection. Pairings feel more like conversations than exercises — always seeking harmony, never showiness.

The décor tells the same story in whispers: anthracite walls, natural textures, materials sourced from Oaxaca and Mexico City, 1050 Grados ceramics, lighting crafted with Atelier Fomenta and ceramicist Emma Larocque, the Faro piece by Studio Botté, and furniture by La Metropolitana. Light — Luz — glides across the surfaces, softening the darkness and instilling a meditative calm. The later the night, the more the space reveals itself.

Bar Luz offers just about twenty seats, an à la carte menu, and service from Wednesday to Saturday starting at 5 p.m. (reservations strongly recommended). In the fall, after the seasonal taqueria Terraza Luz closes, the team will launch a Mexican brunch featuring their signature tacos.

Come for a living, memory-driven Mexican cuisine, for corn treated with reverence, precise plates, and a room that breathes intention. Return because the gesture is pure, the experience cohesive — and because this light truly soothes the soul.