Normand Laprise: Pioneer of Quebec Gastronomy

Toqué! is one of the greatest culinary institutions in the province. Opened in 1993 by Normand Laprise and Christine Lamarche, the duo’s unique approach completely transformed Quebec’s gastronomic landscape.

By working within a short supply chain, Normand Laprise paved the way for today’s new generation. It was a conscious choice—prioritizing ingredient quality and showcasing seasonal cuisine.

What began, in his words, as an “intuitive, selfish choice”—wanting to know where products came from and to control their quality—became a quiet yet powerful form of advocacy. “I never felt, and I still don’t feel, that I gave Quebec cuisine a new identity. There were excellent chefs before me. It was a different era, a quieter industry… But they were there, working hard, and they were very important.” For him, the recognition of Quebec’s culinary identity is the result of hard work, courage, and conviction shared by many. It is a collective achievement, not an individual one.

Still, Normand’s work was pioneering. He cleared a path for many others. When we think of Quebec gastronomy today—now increasingly praised—what comes to mind is local sourcing and seasonal cooking. Much of that is thanks to Normand. What he created was unique at the time: sourcing directly from producers and working with ingredients in ways that allowed them to be cooked year-round. Today, this approach is standard practice in Quebec restaurants—an identity and, above all, a point of pride.

To understand Normand’s philosophy and that of Toqué!, we must return to his childhood on a farm—listening to the seasons, working the land, and learning that we nourish one another first. “Staying true to yourself and staying human—that’s what matters. That’s always stayed with me.” This compass—the love of product, respect for craft, generosity—guided every decision and turned Toqué! into a benchmark institution.

The Farm as a First School

Born and raised in the countryside of Kamouraska, Normand grew up on a foster family farm where everything was made, preserved, and shared. “Everything we ate was good!” he recalls. Canning vegetables to avoid eating only root vegetables in winter, flavorful chicken straight from the coop, one calf slaughtered per month, fresh eel from the nearby river, milk straight from the cows—these memories shaped a palate trained in the honesty of ingredients.

When he moved to Quebec City as a teenager, the contrast with packaged and frozen foods shocked him. “The meat… it tasted like blood. The milk tasted like water and cardboard.” Without realizing it, he had learned to recognize quality very early on. At the time, however, he had no idea he would build a career around it.

It was during the Montreal Olympics that the idea began to simmer. A dream took shape: travel. An old friend of his father offered advice that turned curiosity into vocation: “If you want to travel, become a chef. Everyone needs to eat. If you’re a chef, you can find a job anywhere in the world.”

He enrolled in culinary school in Quebec City. At first, it wasn’t love at first sight. “I remember making a sole Florentine recipe at school—we had to write it step by step for the exam. I lost so many points because I didn’t write that you had to defrost the ingredients… it just didn’t occur to me!”

It was in France that he truly fell in love with cooking—a love rooted, paradoxically, in the same values as his rural family table. He rediscovered fresh products, ingredient quality, respect for the product. And he realized the same could be done here, in Quebec.

Lessons from the Masters

When you ask many of Quebec’s leading chefs who their mentor is, several will say Normand—among them Charles-Antoine Crête and Martin Picard. So who mentored the mentor?

Normand gratefully cites key figures: Jean Abraham, who taught him rigor “the hard way, but honestly,” and Jacques Le Pluart, who instilled consistency, discipline, and passion. These encounters gave him a guiding line: respect for the brigade, for the products, and for the guests. These values would become the backbone of Toqué!. “If I hadn’t crossed paths with them, I wouldn’t be where I am today.”

Toqué! became a true school in itself, where he passes on what his mentors taught him. Rigor and consistency remain at the heart of his brigade. Many prominent Quebec chefs spent their formative years there. For Normand, his greatest pride is seeing them spread their wings—opening restaurants of their own and contributing to the international recognition of Quebec gastronomy. He is particularly moved by their social engagement beyond the kitchen—proof that mentorship goes beyond technique.

The Toqué! Duo

Normand describes the decision to open Toqué! as a chain reaction. He was set to leave his first head-chef position at Citrus. International offers tempted him, but nothing materialized. Over dinner, a close friend told him: “No, you can’t leave—Montreal needs you. Why not open your own restaurant?”

The idea of Toqué! was born.

The next day, he met for coffee with his former Citrus colleague and close friend, Christine Lamarche. He shared his desire to open a restaurant. She replied, “If you open something, I’m in.” Normand answered, “Put your coat on—we’re going to look at spaces.”

Toqué! is Normand—but it is also Christine. It was a risk taken together. A bold move during a recession, in a location many advised against. It’s proof that trusting your instincts pays off. By combining their strengths, Normand and Christine built a gastronomic empire.

Today and Tomorrow

After so many years, what still fuels him is the brigade, camaraderie among chefs, international events, reading, and his family—his wife and three children. Experiences like the television show Les Chefs! have also been enriching.

International recognition, such as the Icon Award at the World’s 50 Best North America, deeply moved him. It allowed him to listen to compliments rather than criticisms. “That award forced me to appreciate what I’ve done since the beginning of my career… And receiving it surrounded by talented chefs, friends, the Table Ronde crew… That moment was unique and precious. I’ll remember it for the rest of my life.”

For Normand, Quebec gastronomy’s next great challenge is clear: to keep evolving, innovating, and using our resources intelligently—first and foremost for ourselves. And when asked whether he will still be part of that future, the answer is simple, almost expected: very likely, yes.

With Toqué!, Normand Laprise made a total commitment—to build something and allow it to grow, leaving behind a timeless legacy.

Thank you, Normand, for shaping Quebec’s culinary scene. Your legacy is already measured in everything you have done for it.

Written by Jean-Philippe Tastet
Photography by Audrey-Ève Beauchamp