Christine Lamarche: The Other Face of Toqué!

When we think of Toqué!, we inevitably think of chef Normand Laprise, rightly regarded as the godfather of modern Québécois gastronomy. But without Christine Lamarche, his partner since day one, the celebrated restaurant would not be what it is today. Meet the other face of Toqué!

Let’s set the record straight: despite what some may believe, Christine Lamarche and Normand Laprise are not a couple. “We’ve been business partners for over 30 years, but we’re not spouses. We each have our own partners and children and all that!” she says with a laugh.

The story of Toqué! began in 1993, when the restaurant Citrus—where the two future partners worked in the kitchen—closed its doors. “We were out of work. Normand had the idea of opening a restaurant, and one morning he came over for coffee. I told him, ‘Listen, if you need help, I’m there,’” she recalls.

Eight months pregnant at the time, Christine jumped into the adventure without overthinking it. The two young partners had no idea they were about to spark a small revolution in Québec’s culinary landscape. “I was 27. When you’re young, you just go for it. You don’t always worry about whether it’ll still exist in 10 or 30 years,” she says.

A cuisine rooted here

“At the time, there were mostly foreign chefs. There weren’t many Québécois chefs,” notes the co-owner of Toqué!. “We wanted to create a restaurant that reflected who we were, where we could do what we truly wanted to do.”

The seeds of local gastronomy—working with local products, fresh ingredients, and maintaining direct relationships with small producers—had already been planted during their Citrus days. “Normand had worked in France. He’d seen the small producer come in through the back door with a crate of leeks, the fisherman delivering his daily catch. That inspired him, and he brought that philosophy back to Québec,” she explains.

It was also during a trip to France that Christine, then studying geography, caught the culinary bug. “I had the chance to dine in several great restaurants and visit their kitchens. It was a turning point. I came back, finished my degree, and then went into the kitchen.”

During Toqué!’s early months, both partners cooked. They quickly realized no one was handling administration, customer service, or staff management. Christine made the move to the administrative side—better suited to her new role as a young mother.

“I always say I’m a cook who went off track,” she jokes. “I work the dining room, but I never studied service or sommellerie. I’m still a cook at heart.”

Through thick and thin

Three decades later, the partners are still steering the ship together. “We make big decisions together. We consult each other constantly. That’s the key to our longevity. After 30 years, I don’t think we’re about to start arguing now!” she says.

Despite significant challenges—including a pandemic that nearly sank their flagship and led to the closure of Brasseries T! and Burger T!—the duo keeps moving forward.

“It wasn’t easy closing those businesses, especially on a human level,” she says. “Of course there are financial losses, material losses, but the hardest part for us was the people—employees, clients, suppliers. It was heartbreaking.”

Still, they resist the urge to change a winning formula. “Toqué! will remain Toqué!. We intend to stay high-end. Our main motivation is to ensure guests have a wonderful time—eat well, have fun, feel well taken care of—always with white tablecloths, very professional service, but slightly relaxed so it’s enjoyable for everyone.”

Asked about the possible arrival of the Michelin Guide in Québec—recently mentioned in an open letter by chef François-Emmanuel Nicol to Québec City’s mayor—Christine is cautious. “I don’t know what it would bring to Montréal’s restaurant scene. If they come, we’ll see. But personally, I won’t bend over backward for it. Would guests necessarily have a better evening or lunch if we had one or two stars? I’m not convinced.”

Retirement is for others

Toqué! quietly celebrated its 30th anniversary in 2023. “We were focused on keeping the brasseries afloat. Officially, we didn’t make a big deal of it, but we know—and we carry on. It’s not an end in itself.”

Now approaching her sixties, Christine has no immediate plans to retire. “We’re not eternal—we can’t assume we’ll work until 85. But as long as I have my health and motivation, I’ll continue. I look at my mother, who’s 93. I can’t see myself retired for the next 30 years.”

Her secret? “I work with lots of young people, and I’m sure that helps keep me young. I don’t deny my age, but it’s wonderful to be around people in their 20s, 30s, 40s every day.”

Would she change anything? “I regret nothing! I love what I do. It’s not always easy, but what a beautiful profession!” If she could offer advice to her 27-year-old, eight-months-pregnant self, she would simply say: “Let’s go—you’re making the right choice. You’re going to be happy.”

Humbly, Christine hopes her path inspires others to pursue careers in service. “Today, chefs are more recognized, thanks to competitions and media exposure. But front-of-house professions—server, sommelier, maître d’—are less visible. Some young people work in dining rooms during their studies, but for others, it’s a career. I hope I inspire a few people, because these are wonderful professions—professions with a future.”

And as far as we’re concerned, Christine, you inspire us. Thank you for 30 beautiful years—here’s to 30 more just as remarkable.

Written by Jean-Philippe Tastet
Photography by Mikael Lebleu