Normal: the Sainte-Agathe-des-Monts table that is anything but ordinary

When Étienne Lanthier-Morache settled in Sainte-Agathe-des-Monts after cooking in some of Montreal’s top kitchens — notably Toqué! and Mapache — one thing quickly became clear: there was nowhere in the region where you could simply sit down to a well-crafted plate, a glass of wine in hand, without wincing at the bill. In 2023, he set out to change that by opening Normal, a restaurant whose modest name hides a far-from-ordinary culinary proposition.

A décor that tells stories

Step inside and you’re welcomed into a bright, warm space entirely designed by the chef himself. Your eye is immediately drawn to the fifty or so trinkets and curious objects scattered throughout. These are personal keepsakes or gifts left behind by regulars, giving the room a singular soul. Large communal tables invite guests to share the space in a convivial atmosphere without ever feeling crowded, while a comfortable bar and several smaller tables round out the layout.

A cuisine rooted in the Laurentian terroir

From the kitchen, expect a menu that evolves constantly, allowing Étienne’s creativity to shine while following the rhythm of local, seasonal products. Sourcing locally is a true commitment for the chef, who works closely with a wide range of producers from the region — many of whom have become friends over time. During our visit, we were particularly taken with his fresh pasta: the agnolotti of the day, filled with maitake mushrooms and Parmesan. Boreal ingredients from the region, including wild forest finds, also play a starring role in his cooking.

Desserts, which change with arrivals, are well worth saving room for (or two). And with prices ranging from $14 to $39 for generous portions, the experience remains genuinely accessible.

“I wanted to encourage sharing — an approach people in the region aren’t always used to, but are slowly coming to really enjoy,” says the chef. “The menu features both more refined dishes for the curious and approachable classics that I tested for months before giving them a permanent place, like the fried hedgehog mushroom sandwich (karaage-style fried mushroom, coleslaw, pickles).”

A wine cellar to rival specialty shops

Another standout feature of Normal is its wine list, remarkable for a restaurant of its size. With over 250 bottles selected by the owner and his team, the focus leans strongly toward natural wines, while also showcasing a few Quebec vineyards. Whether you’re sharing a favorite bottle or sipping a carefully crafted cocktail at the bar, this versatility adds to the restaurant’s appeal.

The verdict

Normal stands out as one of those Laurentian destinations worth the trip on its own. With a chef boasting a solid background, generous cuisine that highlights the boreal pantry, a charming setting, and a wine list worthy of a specialized shop, Étienne’s restaurant proves that refined dining in the Laurentians doesn’t have to come with a hefty price tag.